My wife asked me to build something to hide the trash and recycling cans so that we could pretend that we don't produce any garbage. Here's the finished product first because some people have no ability to delay gratification.
The first thing I did was design the cabinet in OpenSCAD. I made it customizable so I could choose any number of garbage cans and any size cans, and the model would adjust and print out a cut list for me. (The script is available at github.com/cfinke/Garbage-Cabinet)
OpenSCAD can do animations too. My wife didn't think this was as neat as I did.
The main cabinet was built from one sheet of sanded plywood. It's 16.5" deep. I don't have a track saw, so I made do with a circular saw and a straight edge.
The first thing I built was the part of the tilting door that holds the cans to make sure that the spacing and measurements were right.
The spacing and measurements were right.
I cut the sides and center of the cabinet and used a biscuit joiner to cut slots at the top that will be used to attach the top. This is similar to how I build my farmhouse table (imgur.com/EeouKPI), and this cabinet will be stained and painted to match.
I used my 90º clamps to hold the boars in place while I joined them with pocket screws.
Oops. I should have checked that I was using the right length of pocket screws.
The center divider was joined with regular 2.5" screws straight up the bottom.
This is how the cabinet bases will sit in the box.
I put together a face frame with 1×2" poplar and pocket screws.
The tabletop is made up of three red oak boards joined with biscuits and glue. Because this cabinet will be in our kitchen, I made it out of the leftover boards from our kitchen table (linked above), so it will match exactly.
Here's the top, cut to length and width and sanded smooth.
And the top in place, before any paint or stain.
The cabinet doors are more 1×2 poplar with a groove on the inside to accept the beadboard panel. Here's how they attache to the tilting bases with glue and nails.
And here's how they fit in front. There's 1/8" space around each door, but I should have left an additional 1/8" or at least 1/16" on the bottom to allow for the space the hinges are going to take.
I stained the tabletop with Varethane Kona.
Here's the top after two coats of polyurethane and the cabinet after the first coat of paint (Sherwin Williams Creamy White).
I attached the doors with hinges at the bottom and added these stop blocks so the doors won't fall all the way open. They stop at about 40º from vertical, leaving just enough room to remove the trash cans.
These spacers in the back ensure that the doors sit flush with the face frame, since the hinges aren't mortised in and they lift the front of the cabinet up about 3/16".
Tada! The handles are leftover from when we switched out handles on a cabinet in the next room.