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There is a link to my GitHub account in the video description, which is where you will find the design codes posted (MATLAB, C++, and Excel).
Ruler : For marking the wood length and hole locations
Saw : For cutting the wood to the right length, and cutting the angles at the ends
Drill : For drilling the two holes
Hole Saw : For drilling the two holes (I use a 1.5 inch hole saw)
Clamp : To secure the wood to a table while you drill the holes
Sandpaper : To make sure you don't start bleeding when you handle it
Finishing oil : To make it look professional
Wood burner (optional) : For custom engraving
1) Open your design program of choice (MATLAB, C++, Excel). If you're going to use the dimensions I give, skip to step 3.
2) Select or enter your bottle type, wood type, and geometric run parameters to design the MWBH.
3) Make a note of the wood length, angle, and length to both holes.
4) Decide which end of your wood will be the base, and mark the wood length and hole locations.
5) Cut the piece of wood to the correct length using your saw.
6) Cut the angle at both the top and bottom of the piece of wood using your saw.
7) Clamp the wood to a table, and drill two holes at the locations marked previously.
8) Sand down the edges and any rough sections. Make sure you don't sand the flat base too much, or your MWBH will rock back and forth.
9) If you want to engrave it, now is the time to use your woodburner. You can trace a stencil onto the wood in pencil, or you can do it freehand.
10) Apply your favorite stain/finish and wait until it dries. Repeat as many times as necessary.
Time to get into the meat of things!
The reason I'm showing the MATLAB output here is because it has the nice visual output of the final design. The important variables to note in the 'Solutions' panel are 'Length', 'Angle', 'L to Hole 1', and 'L to Hole 2'. Make a note of these for the next step.
You might have noticed the (green) slider below the plot. This shows you the design with different hole diameters. The minimum hole diameter (in this case 1 inch, based off the bottle neck diameter) will make your bottles stand perpendicular to the wood board. The maximum hole diameter is defined such that the bottles will lie flat with respect to the table (parallel to the table). As you can see, I chose 1.5 inches as my hole diameter for a few reasons. The first is that this is one of the hole saw sizes I had. The second is that I like the way the bottles look when they lie at a slight upwards angle. The last is that the diameter of a normal tea light is 1.5 inches, so when you're not using it to balance wine bottles, you can use it as a sort of tea light holder (see last picture in the post).
If you want more information about some of the settings, you can ask me or check out the document on my GitHub titled MWBH_Design.pdf. It goes through the math behind the calculations.
These dimensions that I'm giving here are for my maple wood. If you were using the same exact design, but for pallet wood, the total length would be 13.4 inches, and the lengths to the bottom and top holes would be 4.35 and 10.72 inches, respectively. There is some forgiveness in the design however. You can move the bottle neck in or out of the hole to change the balance. It's easier to balance with a thicker piece of wood, but I think the thinner pieces look more intriguing.
This may seem like a classic case of "First Step: Buy a Miter Saw", but I can assure you that these cuts are so simple that any hand-held saw will do. I just choose to use a miter saw because I have one.
There are a couple different bits you can use. I started out using a spade bit, but for larger holes they are really annoying and take forever because you are cutting away the entire material in the hole. I decided to change to a hole saw because, as you can see in the picture, you're only cutting away a little material that defines the diameter of the hole. The circular piece of wood that you see is what is left over after the drilling. You can also use a Forstner bit if you like saying fun words.
After you've drilled the holes, this is the time to sand it down to however smooth you feel is sufficient. I tend to just round off the outside edges a little bit, take off the roughest splinters on the angled top and base (without rounding off the edges that need to be flat), and then make sure the holes are smooth. I would say the holes need the most sanding.
The MWBH shown in the first picture in this post is actually made out of pallet wood.
If you have any questions, comments, or suggestions, I'd love to hear from you!