Finished product first
I built a reach-in pantry.
Bought a great house, but the amount of storage space in the kitchen was, frankly, stupid. This wire shelving was just a short-term fix. It had to go.
Had no idea what I was doing. Learned a lot from these guys: www.youtube.com/channel/UCpJ1vJPFqImom-NN2fkBS0A
First, I marked the joists and studs. Then I screwed the top plate into the joists (the joists run parallel to the face of the pantry, so the depth of the pantry was governed by the joist placement).
I drilled the bottom plates directly into the linoleum floor after using a plumb bob to locate them.
One thing I forgot to do was make sure the floor was level. It wasn't; off by about 1/4 inch over the six foot span. That meant the door header was slightly off level because my plans were built on the assumption that the floor was level. Everything else was nice and plumb. Don't assume your structure is square, people!
Shot of the side wall frame
Since the wall was less than 22" wide, it didn't make sense to make the stud 16" on center. I figured 10" was a good distance that would be easy to remember in the future if necessary.
I really couldn't believe how smoothly this went. I learned to keep the drywall 1/2" off the ground in case there's a spill. I know you're generally not supposed to have a seam near the corner of a door opening, but since this isn't a load-bearing wall, I figured it wouldn't be a big deal and it kept all my cuts rectangular.
Man oh man I am terrible at spackling. Lots of sanding and I still couldn't get the butt joints flush. Since I was going with an eggshell finish, I wasn't too concerned, but definitely something I need to work on in the future.
Word to the wise: if you're going to be sanding drywall, wear a respirator and cover your shit with plastic sheeting! The dust gets everywhere and isn't pleasant to inhale.
Getting the flashing on the corner bead was tough, especially fading it out farther away from the corner. I tried sanding it smooth, but kept ruining the paper on the sheet rock. After three applications I decided it was good enough and hopefully the primer will smooth it out.
I found that it you're going with a pre-made joint compound, it's easier to work with if you loosen it up with a tiny bit of water first.
Door jamb in and walls primed
I planed some rough-sawn 7/8" thick spruce down to 3/4" for the jamb material. I was also able to fix the level issue on the door header with some shims. The side jambs needed minimal shimming.
Walls painted and casing added
I kept a 1/4" reveal on the door jamb, but accidentally added 1/2" to all three pieces (instead of 1/4" to the side jambs and 1/2" on the header casing). I discovered the issue quickly because I marked the reveal distance at several points. Not a bit deal, but I was scratching my head for a bit on that one.
So much for re-purposing
The person whose house it was before we moved in left some lumber behind in the garage. The original plan was to use that for the shelves. When I took the lumber down to take a look, I found that all the wood had holes drilled down the entire length. I'm guessing they were the side pieces to a homemade bookcase. Oh well; off to Home Depot.
Shelves going in
I cut 1×12's down to length and started mounting them on metal shelving brackets. I used blue tape to mark the studs and help with consistent bracket positioning. The studs were spaced 24" on center, which worked out nicely with the pantry dimensions. Didn't really have a consistent plan until I was about 1/3 of the way through…
This took a long time
Even though I drilled pilot holes to help with positioning, I still broke a few screws. I think there must be some sort of metal backing on some of the studs. Either that or the screws I was using were too long.
Doors and baseboard in!
I got these doors from a guy on Craigslist for $20. Since the floor wasn't level, I shimmed the right bottom floor receiver so that the doors would stay flush vertically. In retrospect, I probably could've just extended the support rod on the bottom a bit more to compensate.
The baseboard doesn't match the original because we're planning to redo the floors and trim soon, so figured I'd get a head start. Still have to caulk the baseboard and paint the doors and casing, but my wife said she'll do it, so it's pretty much a wrap for me.
Altogether, I'd estimate the build cost about $400 and took about four solid days. Not bad at all and definitely a learning experience. Thanks for reading!