I had the open pole barn built and the concrete poured. I've done everything else with the help of my father and father-in-law.
First step was to move the old shed and remove a few trees and shrubs. Driving a skidsteer was fun.
These are 8×8 posts buried 4' deep. The side walls will be 10' tall.
There are 4 steel trusses spaced 12' apart and 2×6 purlins.
They finished the whole thing in less than 2 days.
We hired the out for the concrete work. They formed 1 1/2" outside the posts because we will be framing with 2×6 boards on the outside of the posts.
They formed one day and poured the next and were done.
We had a concrete professional pour the concrete. They did a great job.
This is where my work began. We framed with 2x6x12 boards using a framing nailer. We cut spacers so we didn't have to level each board. Just cut it to length and stack it on top of the spacers and nail it into place.
These are 2×6's spaced 2 feet apart. Every other board has a 2×6 sideways for more stability. The bottom will have 2×6's along the floor screwed in using concrete screws.
This was our first side for insulation and siding. We're using double bubble insulation. It comes in a big roll 4' wide. It is stapled up using a hammer type stapler and a regular staple gun. The siding is metal siding from a local metal roofing company. The sheets are 3' wide. They are screwed into place using matching screws from the roofing company. We used battery powered impact drivers.
You can see the inside of the insulation. The insulation is 4' wide. We ran it horizontal. The wall purlins are 2' apart so all of the seams in the insulation are hidden behind 2×6 boards. The 2×6 boards along the floor are screwed into place using concrete screw
The metal sheets overlap to seal the building.
My father-in-law framed the door for me while I was at work one day. Nice surprise. He framed it using 2×4 boards.
The framing was done with a pneumatic framing nailer. Big time saver.
The entry door was bought with the threshold, so once it was framed we just lifted it into place, squared it, and nailed it in. We did have to cut the metal siding around the door, but there is J-channel installed around the door to cover our cut edges.
We did find that we had to notch the metal panels around the steel trusses just about an inch. I cut these notches with metal cutting snips. I should have had the panels made an inch or so shorter and it would have saved us some time and hassle.
My father and one of his friends installed the back door for me. His friend used to be a professional installer.
The angles took a little time to cut. The roof is a 4/12 pitch so every 3 feet of width, the roof line drops 1 foot. We started in the middle and measured the high point of each sheet. We marked the metal on the high side, then the opposite side we marked one foot shorter. We cut these using a sheet metal cutter that hooks onto an electric drill. This was available from the roofing manufacturer where we got the metal siding.
The front door is also in. I installed the front door with my father and father-in-law and the help of a scissor lift. It's rolled up right now. We used the back door as a guide to install the front. The door rails were measured and then bolted onto the door posts. We then used the scissor lift to lift the door into place and set it on top of the rails. We unrolled the door into the rails and centered it. We rolled it up slowly and bolted the rails into place as we went up.
There are 10×10 commercial roll up doors on the front and back.
I ran extensions cords and hung 2 lights so I could work at night.
Using 2×4's and 3/4" plywood. I screwed the 3 back supports into the wall using 3" deck screws. Then I built the 2×4 frames using deck screws. I cut spacers to put the shelves at the right height. I screwed them in to the bottom of the front and back legs. I then turned the shelf frame on its side and screwed it onto the front legs. Then I set the whole thing upright and sat it on the spacers on the back legs and screwed everything in place once I made sure everything was square. Rinse and repeat for the next 2 shelves.
I'm putting them on both sides of the back door. They are 6' high by about 10' long. I'm about 215 lbs and I jumped around on top of these. they're not going anywhere. There are spacers between each shelf. This helps strengthen the shelves, but it also helped installing. I did all of this by myself. Once the spacers were installed, I set the shelf frame (minus the plywood) on the spacers and screwed it into place. Then I set the plywood on top of the frame and screwed it down using 2 1/2" deck screws.
It didn't take my wife long to fill up the first shelf.
I sealed the floor with Eagle Gloss Coat from Home Depot. I mopped the floor first using muratic acid. I then rolled the sealer on using a short nap paint roller with a long handle. It took about an hour to do the whole floor. The smell is very strong so make sure you're in a well ventilated area. I've also finished the shelves on the other side of the door.
Dug the trench down 18". The distance was about 70'. Again, the cat wanted to help. Make sure you call and have all utilities marked before you start digging. My phone wire was only about 6" deep so we had to go underneath that.
The wire used was 2-2-2-4 service wire from Lowe's. The wire was a struggle to pull through the 1 1/4" conduit. I should have gotten 2". The other is 1/2" conduit that I ran CAT5 through. This is supplying my internet and TV.
125 Amp Siemens panel installed by my Father-in-Law.
The lights are on one circuit but on 2 switches so I can light up either half or all. The lights are wired using 14/2 wire. I wired jumpers to each switch from the source wire to split between the 2 switches. Then each switch has a wire running to the 2 sides of the barn.
I installed 8 4' LED shop lights 3200 lumens each. They plug in instead of being hardwired so I installed a single gang outlet at each light fixture. I originally bought 12 lights but 8 is enough. They are hung on 2×6 support boards using deck screws and included chains.
We've started moving a few things in. We had to wait about 3 days for the concrete sealer to dry before we could really use the floor.
I've got 8 4 outlet boxes around the barn for a total of 32 plugs. I never want to be too far from an outlet. These are split onto 2 20 amp circuits. The outlets are wired using 12/2 electrical wire. The lights are run of a single 15 amp circuit. I will be installing a 30 amp circuit to power a large compressor at some point, but I don't have a large compressor yet.
I'm also installing peg board on the wall to hang yard tools. You can see I've still got to clean up some of the wiring.
My work bench will go along this wall.
I'm going to hang the TV with an articulating mount. The 32" looks a little small out here though. Luckily I figured out that my wireless receiver from Dish network could be connected to my home network via CAT5 instead of using their wireless network. So I ran one CAT5 cable from my router in the house. It goes into a wireless router in the barn and the Dish receiver is plugged in using CAT5 cable. Works great and I've got full access to live TV and all my DVR recordings from the main receiver.
Almost, like I said, I've still got to install soffit, fascia trim pieces and rebuild the pump house. It's taken us a couple months from start to finish but I'm thrilled with what we've accomplished. I've learned so much during this build, but I'm glad it's over.